Guillaume joined the family domaine in 1999, when his father was a member of the co-op in Chablis, and convinced him to build a cellar and start making his own wines. Their success was such that they have grown from 12 hectares of vineyard to 27 hectares today. In 2009, Guillaume moved to organic viticulture but, like many growers in Chablis, abandoned it in the difficult 2016 growing season and is once again in the middle of the three year conversion period.
His scrupulously clean cellar is comprised primarily of gleaming tanks, as 90% of his wines are fermented in stainless steel. 500 litre barrels are used for the two wines which see a proportion of oak. In 2005, he started using solely native yeasts in his winemaking.
“I think it gives me wines with more fruit and minerality,” he asserts. But it is in the vineyard that Guillaume makes the difference. He has 12 separate parcels of Chablis spread over 14 hectares of 15-50 year old vines on three different soil types: Kimmeridgian, white clay and Portlandian. “I think my best Chablis comes from a blend of all three soils,” he says.
To express the character of the vineyards in the finished wines, he is very attentive to picking time. “I pick when the seeds in the grape are brown, but before any over-ripeness or botrytis has set in,” he explains. “I like my Chablis to be lean rather than fat and full.”