Domaine La Croix Gratiot, Picpoul de Pinet

For over 30 years Domaine La Croix Gratiot, which comprises 35 hectares in Montagnac, has been owned by brothers Yves and Hugues Ricome. After years of selling to their local co-operative, Yves started bottling his own wine in 2005 and bought his brother’s share of the domaine in 2009. His daughter Anaïs, who worked in New Zealand with Matt Thomson (co-owner of Blank Canvas), has since taken over managing the estate. Anaïs has driven a transition to biodynamic farming and gained organic certification from the 2021 vintage. She makes wonderfully pure, unoaked wines reflecting the potential of the local varieties. Her work and vision have resulted in the recognition of La Croix Gratiot as ‘the pinnacle of Picpoul de Pinet’ by French publication la Revue du vin de France.

Since 1996, the vineyards have been restructured and planted to varieties best suited to the soil and microclimate. Picpoul is grown on a chalky plateau, where maritime breezes help to cool the climate and provide ideal conditions for developing the variety’s aromatic compounds and lively acidity. The Picpoul de Pinet is expressive, with notes of pure stone fruit on the palate. Anaïs also makes a premium Picpoul de Pinet, ‘Bréchallune’, from selected parcels fermented in ceramic amphorae and aged on its lees post-fermentation to add texture and complexity. The ‘Désir Blanc’ is a harmonious blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. It has perfumed aromatics of bright stone fruit, a refreshing acidity and a long finish.

Inspired by her time in New Zealand, Anaïs has planted Pinot Noir, a rarity in this part of Southern France, which produces the estate's excellent Pinot Noir, ‘Les Zazous’. It is aromatic and elegant with notes of rose and violet, red cherries and a hint of spice. Made from 100% Syrah, the ‘Rouge Cerise’ undergoes a short maceration to produce a fresh wine with fragrant, pure red fruit.