Kaiken Ultra, Mendoza Malbec

Kaikenes are wild geese, native to Patagonia, that fly across the Andes between Chile and Argentina. In the same way, legendary Chilean winemaker Aurelio Montes crossed the Andes to make wines in Mendoza. After several exploratory trips, Aurelio saw the enormous potential for premium viticulture in this region and founded the Kaiken winery in 2002. He aims to make great wines in Mendoza and, in doing so, to show the best of both sides of the Andes.

Kaiken’s estate vineyards are planted in the heart of Mendoza and further south in the Uco Valley, where many premium producers are now sourcing fruit. Their focus is primarily on Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, a variety once almost forgotten in the region. As a result of Kaiken’s protection, there are now several old vine Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in Mendoza that produce excellent wines, including Kaiken’s vineyard in the Vistalba district of Luján de Cuyo which was first planted in 1910.

Originally planting the variety in secret from his father, it was through experimentation that Aurelio Montes Junior discovered that the Uco Valley’s high-elevation vineyards were also well suited to growing Cabernet Franc. Aurelio Junior has pioneered this variety in Argentina and together with a handful of other winemakers, has highlighted the country’s potential to produce top-quality Cabernet Franc. Kaiken’s ‘Obertura’ displays an intense and complex nose, with fresh redcurrants, plums and spicy notes of pepper and clove. The grapes for Kaiken’s traditional method sparkling wine are sourced from the renowned sub-region of Gualtallary, also in the Uco Valley. Here limestone-rich soils and elevations of around 1,400 metres provide optimal conditions for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

‘Disobedience’ by Francis Mallmann represents Kaikens long collaboration with this famed Argentinian chef. Known for his distinct style of open-fire cooking, Mallmann has numerous restaurants worldwide including a site at Kaiken. ‘Disobedience’ comprises a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot sourced from Altamira and Vistalba. 30% of the wine is aged in first-use French oak while the remainder is aged in used oak barrels to create a rounded, rich wine with expressive red fruit and sweet spice notes. Meaning ‘first’ in the Pehuenche dialect, ‘Mai’ is Kaiken’s top wine. Sourced from 100-year-old vines in Vistalba, this 100% Malbec is structured and powerful yet balanced. It is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, which lends the wine a complexity and roundness that carries through to the finish. The wine is ready to be enjoyed now but has the intensity and structure to age for the next decade.

Ultra

Kaiken’s ‘Ultra wines are a step up from the Clásico and Terroir Series. The Chardonnay, 35% of which was fermented in barrel, is rich and textured, with beautifully balanced acidity. Fruit for the Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from Kaiken’s Vistalba vineyard in Luján de Cuyo, which has been farmed biodynamically since 2011. The 80-year-old vines give the wine complexity, structure, and concentration. The Malbec, from high-elevation vineyards in Vistaflores (at 1,400 metres), Gualtallary (at 1,300 metres) and Altamira (at 1,100 metres), has enticing black fruit and spicy aromas and offers good structure and soft tannins on the palate. The Merlot, sourced from over 75-year-old vines from a single vineyard in Vistalba, has pronounced aromas of cassis and dark plum.