Truchard, Carneros Roussanne

A pioneer of Carneros AVA, Tony Truchard’s story is one of remarkable perseverance and foresight. His grandfather emigrated to Texas from France in the 1880s, planted vines and established a winery. Although hailing from a farming background, Tony instead studied medicine and moved to California. A chance drive through Carneros persuaded him to purchase an abandoned eight-hectare orchard with a southwest exposure. Although the area was mainly pastureland in the 1970s, Tony recognised the benefits of the cooling fog and moderate temperatures for viticulture. Intrigued about why no one had planted grapes in the area, he asked around. Everyone gave the same response: it was too cool and there was not enough water for the shallow clay hillsides. Determined to prove there was a way, Tony utilised the clay soils to create reservoirs and trap the rainwater, which could be used sparingly to grow vines. He became an early adopter of drip irrigation, which was not yet used in California. Successful plantings of various grapes followed, including Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tony continued to practise medicine, only this time in Nevada, and would drive 3.5 hours to Carneros with his family every Friday evening to work in the vineyard. He and his two sons, John and Anthony II, would tend to the vines before returning home on Sunday night.

Over the years neighbours noted Tony’s viticultural success and approached him to buy their farms. The estate grew gradually to become one of the largest in Carneros with 162 hectares of contiguously rolling slopes and multiple aspects, of which 113 hectares are now planted and managed sustainably. Although his son, Anthony, runs the estate today, Tony still oversees the vineyards. Located in the foothills of the Mayacamas mountains in the most Northeastern part of Carneros, the vines benefit from additional warmth and alluvial soils which supply good drainage. The family now grow 12 different varieties thanks to the diversity of clay, shale, sandstone and volcanic soils, although the majority are Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyards are divided into individual blocks to best match grape varieties to the right soils.

After selling grapes to premium wineries across Napa for 15 years, the Truchards built their own winery, replicating the design of Tony’s grandfathers in Texas (pictured on the labels) and began producing their own wine in 1989. This model continues today with 20% of the harvest kept for their own production. Their focus remains on crafting wines that reflect the unique location of the estate. The Chardonnay is harvested from 25–47-year-old vines and whole cluster pressed before undergoing 100%-barrel fermentation in French oak, a third of which is new. The wine remains in barrel on its lees for 10 months, with regular battonage, to lend additional freshness and texture. The resulting wine is vibrant with notes of pineapple, quince, toasted oak, and a fresh mineral finish. Sourced from 19–42-year-old vines, the Cabernet Sauvignon is gently destemmed and crushed before undergoing fermentation with twice daily pump-overs. Blended with 11% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec to lend additional spice and structure, the wine is aged for 20 months in French oak barrels, 45% of which are new, with racking every four months until bottling. The resulting wine has expressive notes of plum and cassis with hints of cedar and vanilla and ripe fine-grained tannins.