Valdespino, Classic Collection, Medium Dry Amontillado `Contrabandista`

Valdespino is one of the oldest bodegas in Jerez, with a history of Sherry production going back six centuries. In 1264, Alfonso Valdespino was one of 24 knights who fought against the Arabs for the city of Jerez with King Alfonso X. As a reward for his efforts, he was given land that formed the basis of the bodega. Today Valdespino belongs to the Estevez family, who purchased the bodega in 1999.

The Fino ‘Inocente’, from the Premium collection, is a single-vineyard Sherry made from grapes grown in Valdespino’s acclaimed ‘Marcharnudo Alto’ vineyard. It is the only Fino Sherry currently fermented in oak barrels and boasts a solera system with ten ‘criaderas’, while most Fino Sherries have only three. The ‘Macharnudo’ vineyard is so admired for the quality of its fruit, that Valdespino also make a still wine from it, ‘Viña Macharnudo Alto’ Palomino. The vineyard has been certified organic from vintage 2022. The ‘Viña Macharnudo Alto’ Palomino is made from grapes sourced from the highest point of the vineyard, which benefits from both the cooling influence of the Poniente wind and optimum sun exposure. Fermented in sherry barrels, the resulting wine displays a delicate white stone-fruit character supported by soft brioche notes. The Manzanilla ‘Deliciosa’, also from the Premium collection, is sourced from the ‘Miraflores’ vineyard in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. On the palate, it is very dry but crisp and fresh, with a slightly saline finish.

Valdespino owns 750 hectares of vineyards in Jerez, which is extremely rare in this region, allowing them close control over grape quality. They are the only bodega currently producing single vineyard Sherries and are also renowned for their VOS (Very Old Sherry) with over 20 years of ageing and VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) with over 30 years of ageing. The Oloroso Solera 1842 VOS, for example, is produced from a solera that was established in the mid-19th century.

The ‘Single Cask’ Palo Cortado is notably unique. It is made from grapes grown in the ‘Macharnudo’ vineyard, all of which are from a single vintage. Rather than ageing in a solera system of multiple barrels, it is aged in just one. This unique Palo Cortado is defined by an array of flavours, including dried fruits, orange zest, hazelnuts and figs.

Valdespino has also developed a collection of aperitifs by recovering old recipes and original labels from the early 20th century using Very Old Oloroso Wines. The Vermouth is made from Very Old Oloroso with Moscatel, combined with extracts of mugwort, coriander, elderberry and gentian, chamomile flowers, aromatic cloves, cinnamon, dried Seville oranges and juniper berries. The final blend is aged in former Oloroso barrels. Quina comes from a combination of Very Old Oloroso Wines with Pedro Ximenez from the soleras of the PX ‘EL Candado’. A hydro-alcoholic maceration takes place with Cinchona bark (Quina), gentian root, natural liquorice extract and nutmeg, along with a selection of dried citrus fruits.

The range is completed by two premium spirits: the ‘Solera Gran Reserva’ Brandy de Jerez and the ‘Ron Viejo’ rum. The firm began importing and solera ageing rare distillates in the 1900s and many of these stayed tucked away in a corner of the bodega until 1999 when the Estevez family acquired the firm and these treasures were rediscovered. Over decades, the rum solera has been topped up with selected Panama (70%) and Dominican Republic (30%) rums. On the nose it beautifully blends complex notes of caramel, spice, sherry and citrus. The Brandy de Jerez is a blend of the finest ‘holandas’ distillates and is aged in the solera system for over 25 years. It is warm and complex on the palate with hints of candied orange, oak, honey and hazelnuts, with a very long finish.